Africa twin Magura hydraulic clutch kit

RItwin

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Jul 31, 2018
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Might put this in multiple areas on here, but I'm thinking about putting the Magura hydraulic clutch kit on my '17 standard AT. Seems like a reasonable price, about $200-$300 US for a good clutch upgrade idea. They say it can cut clutch pull by almost half which when on tight technical trails and bad traffic can greatly reduce hand fatigue( I'm all for that, more energy + less fatigue = longer rides!! ) My Question is has anyone installed one on their bikes and how much of a difference did it make and are there any drawbacks, I've ridden with stock hydro clutches on multiple bikes so I know the concepts, I'm more looking for info on the specific Magura kit for the AT. like this one

Keep the rubber side down


https://touratech-usa.com/store/Magura-Hydraulic-Clutch-Kit-Honda-Africa-Twin-CRF1000L
 
Last edited:

Graves

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I have a CR500 that takes two men and a small boy to pull the clutch in. When I got the AT, the clutch pull felt like nothing in comparison, now that I hardly ride the CR anymore the AT’s clutch is starting to feel heavy and the CR’s clutch pull is impossible. What I’m saying here is that hand fatigue is more about conditioning than anything else, try one of those hand exercisers while watching TV. All that being said, I think the hydraulic clutch retrofit tends to reduce pull by about 30%... or so I’ve been told for the CR. The one real significant upside to the retrofit, which would be a real benefit on the CR with its aluminum clutch plates, would be that the clutch adjusts automatically, no more loss of clutch action when working it like a rented donkey.

Might put this in multiple areas on here, but I'm thinking about putting the Magura hydraulic clutch kit on my '17 standard AT. Seems like a reasonable price, about $200-$300 US for a good clutch upgrade idea. They say it can cut clutch pull by almost half which when on tight technical trails and bad traffic can greatly reduce hand fatigue( I'm all for that, more energy + less fatigue = longer rides!! ) My Question is has anyone installed one on their bikes and how much of a difference did it make and are there any drawbacks, I've ridden with stock hydro clutches on multiple bikes so I know the concepts, I'm more looking for info on the specific Magura kit for the AT. like this one

Keep the rubber side down


https://touratech-usa.com/store/Magura-Hydraulic-Clutch-Kit-Honda-Africa-Twin-CRF1000L
 
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RItwin

Active Member
Gold Rider
Jul 31, 2018
79
39
28
R.I. USA
I have a CR500 that takes two men and a small boy to pull the clutch in. When I got the AT, the clutch pull felt like nothing in comparison, now that I hardly ride the CR anymore the AT’s clutch is starting to feel heavy and the CR’s clutch pull is impossible. What I’m saying here is that hand fatigue is more about conditioning than anything else, try one of those hand exercisers while watching TV. All that being said, I think the hydraulic clutch retrofit tends to reduce pull by about 30%... or so I’ve been told for the CR. The one real significant upside to the retrofit, which would be a real benefit on the CR with its aluminum clutch plates, would be that the clutch adjusts automatically, no more loss of clutch action when working it like a rented donkey.
I do agree with the conditioning and comparison part, the AT feels light as a feather compared to my older bikes, but regardless of the bike when you get in the tight stuff and or get a little arm pump going it can get a bit tiresome( or maybe I'm just getting older) it's not like I cant do it, I just was thinking if it would make things easier, why not? I see it as Kind of a "why do it the hard way if I dont have to."

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RItwin

Active Member
Gold Rider
Jul 31, 2018
79
39
28
R.I. USA
I have a CR500 that takes two men and a small boy to pull the clutch in. When I got the AT, the clutch pull felt like nothing in comparison, now that I hardly ride the CR anymore the AT’s clutch is starting to feel heavy and the CR’s clutch pull is impossible. What I’m saying here is that hand fatigue is more about conditioning than anything else, try one of those hand exercisers while watching TV. All that being said, I think the hydraulic clutch retrofit tends to reduce pull by about 30%... or so I’ve been told for the CR. The one real significant upside to the retrofit, which would be a real benefit on the CR with its aluminum clutch plates, would be that the clutch adjusts automatically, no more loss of clutch action when working it like a rented donkey.
And I did rent a donkey in Mexico and boy did it get worked!! theres something about getting that extra rental insurance that just makes you wanna ride the daylights out of it....

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Graves

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My arm pump tends to go away after a half hour... tends to. The last time I rode the AT through real technical stuff my hands all but gave out, need more exercise and acceptance that I'm not as young as I used to be. All of the abuse I gave my body when young is starting to get it's revenge.

I do agree with the conditioning and comparison part, the AT feels light as a feather compared to my older bikes, but regardless of the bike when you get in the tight stuff and or get a little arm pump going it can get a bit tiresome( or maybe I'm just getting older) it's not like I cant do it, I just was thinking if it would make things easier, why not? I see it as Kind of a "why do it the hard way if I dont have to."

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RItwin

Active Member
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My arm pump tends to go away after a half hour... tends to. The last time I rode the AT through real technical stuff my hands all but gave out, need more exercise and acceptance that I'm not as young as I used to be. All of the abuse I gave my body when young is starting to get it's revenge.
I feel your pain... believe me.... im not much for farkles but I am for performance upgrades for sure, eh if it sucks I'll just go back to stock lol but I think I'm gonna pull the trigger on it and get one I'll do an install post on it with pics if anyone is interested!
Next up , sending the forks and shock out to Konflict to get set up... i am still debating which package I want, definitely not looking forward to that bill...

Keep the rubber side down

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Graves

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I've been thinking about one for the CR, but the AT eats all my farkle funds. Please do let us know how the install goes... with pics please.

I feel your pain... believe me.... im not much for farkles but I am for performance upgrades for sure, eh if it sucks I'll just go back to stock lol but I think I'm gonna pull the trigger on it and get one I'll do an install post on it with pics if anyone is interested!
Next up , sending the forks and shock out to Konflict to get set up... i am still debating which package I want, definitely not looking forward to that bill...

Keep the rubber side down

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_relz_

Active Member
Apr 30, 2018
11
5
33
Israel
I'm following this thread too, keep us posted please.
I'm quite OK with a two finger pull on the clutch, but find it a bit hard to control accurately with a one finger pull (and I'd like to get down to the one finger). If the Magura clutch is substantially easier to pull, I might consider it too.
 

RItwin

Active Member
Gold Rider
Jul 31, 2018
79
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R.I. USA
I'm following this thread too, keep us posted please.
I'm quite OK with a two finger pull on the clutch, but find it a bit hard to control accurately with a one finger pull (and I'd like to get down to the one finger). If the Magura clutch is substantially easier to pull, I might consider it too.
Will keep everyone posted, plannin on doing an install post then a test with a scale for pull weight before and after

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RItwin

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Jul 31, 2018
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Just ordered the Africa twin specific setup from touratech for $299 US, could've probably gotten it cheaper elsewhere but I trust touratech to send and advertise the proper parts (piece of mind is priceless)....

https://touratech-usa.com/store/Magura-Hydraulic-Clutch-Kit-Honda-Africa-Twin-CRF1000L

While I was at it I also went to motorsport to get a short lever for the magura kit to test (for future reference if you want the short lever it has to be ordered for a different bike but as long as it's a lever for a magura 167 master cylinder it will work) and a 15t front sprocket to try out, might be nice to have a tractor gear for the tight technical stuff, for $20 I couldn't say no.. links for short lever and sprocket below:

https://www.motosport.com/magura-usa-replacement-lever-167


https://www.motosport.com/sunstar-front-sprocket?mmy=honda;crf1000l;2017&mmy_source=pdp


Keep the rubber side down
 
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RItwin

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Jul 31, 2018
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UPDATE: I have recieved all the parts including both levers and the clutch kit , the box for the magura hydraulic clutch looks a little worse for wear (I think someone pissed in the mail man's corn flakes that morning) but the parts look good and non-damaged.
I do still need to get a pull scale for the pull weight testing, that and I need to get home from this 7 week business trip.....
I didn't want you guys to think I forgot, i should be getting home around the 18th of April so I will be posting the install and test results around then, sorry for the delay but gotta make the money so I can spend it!!



Keep the rubber side down
 
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Graves

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Presuming that counter sprocket is for the twin... you’ll be surprised how much noise is produced without the rubber damper of the OE sprocket.

UPDATE: I have recieved all the parts including both levers and the clutch kit , the box for the magura hydraulic clutch looks a little worse for wear (I think someone pissed in the mail man's corn flakes that morning) but the parts look good and non-damaged.
I do still need to get a pull scale for the pull weight testing, that and I need to get home from this 7 week business trip.....
I didn't want you guys to think I forgot, i should be getting home around the 18th of April so I will be posting the install and test results around then, sorry for the delay but gotta make the money so I can spend it!!



Keep the rubber side down
 

RItwin

Active Member
Gold Rider
Jul 31, 2018
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R.I. USA
Yeah i just got that on a lark just to try out if its no good I'll switch back, never know it migh just fit with it... fingers crossed

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Graves

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I don’t mind the noise, it was just surprising to me how much noise that rubber cushion got rid of.

Yeah i just got that on a lark just to try out if its no good I'll switch back, never know it migh just fit with it... fingers crossed

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RItwin

Active Member
Gold Rider
Jul 31, 2018
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R.I. USA
I don’t mind the noise, it was just surprising to me how much noise that rubber cushion got rid of.
Noise doesn't really bother me too much either, ive got a remus can with no silencer its loud-ish as is, I'm hoping just dropping one tooth will get me a little more low end for the tight stuff in the woods, Ill loose 10-20 mph on the top end and she'll probably be at 6,000 rpm at 80 mph but I can always switch back if I dont like it
 

Graves

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I’ll be interested to see if it throws any codes.

Noise doesn't really bother me too much either, ive got a remus can with no silencer its loud-ish as is, I'm hoping just dropping one tooth will get me a little more low end for the tight stuff in the woods, Ill loose 10-20 mph on the top end and she'll probably be at 6,000 rpm at 80 mph but I can always switch back if I dont like it
 

RItwin

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Jul 31, 2018
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I’ll be interested to see if it throws any codes.
I'm hoping since it's not a DCT it will just throw off the speedo and that's it (and hopefully not screw with the ABS...)

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Graves

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I would imagine that TC and ABS use the wheel speed sensors, but there may be an argument in learned strategy if the memory is not cleared before it is put into service. It will be interesting to see, and could enlighten a bit on software strategy.

I'm hoping since it's not a DCT it will just throw off the speedo and that's it (and hopefully not screw with the ABS...)

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RItwin

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Jul 31, 2018
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R.I. USA
I would imagine that TC and ABS use the wheel speed sensors, but there may be an argument in learned strategy if the memory is not cleared before it is put into service. It will be interesting to see, and could enlighten a bit on software strategy.
We shall soon see, at least if all else fails I can just switch back and with the diagnostic port under the seat and a jumper wire all codes can be cleared pretty quickly. The down side is if I like it geared that way I'm going to have to have it reprogrammed somehow or disable the TC/ABS entirely
The service manual states if the ABS fails it will revert back to manual braking and no TC so at least it does have a fail safe, I think since it is a standalone ABS system taking input from the wheel pulsars the speed of the wheel to the engine should not matter. That being said the manual also says that if different sized rims/tires can affect the way it functions. If anyone has changed gearing on an AT already your input is welcome
 
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