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Bump starting the AT

May 6, 2018
38
10
8
Idaho
#1
So I'm coming back from a long back roads ride when my fuel light comes on. According to my GPS I only had 15 miles to get home, I decided to coast down the long down hills and bump start like I use to do on my other dirt bikes. Being sure the traction control was off and the ABS was off, slowing to around 20 mph I went to 3rd gear and dumped the clutch as I usually did on my other bikes Wouldn't turn the wheel to crank the engine, I thought maybe I didn't have traction or ABS off on the next down hill I tried it again, still didn't crank the engine it would just skid the rear tire. Has anybody else tried this? Or had this happen?
 

Admin

Administrator
Staff member
May 13, 2015
531
164
178
#2
Hey @livingwellcfr,

Tried to bump start once going down a steep hill in the canyons of Malibu and wasn’t successful. I was in 3rd gear but didn’t manage to the get the engine to turn over. It can be done but too chicken to try it again. A 500lb bike is no joke. Haha. Check out this video of a rider bump starting with what looks like webbing and some muscle:
 
Likes: inexorable
May 6, 2018
38
10
8
Idaho
#4
Hey @livingwellcfr,

Tried to bump start once going down a steep hill in the canyons of Malibu and wasn’t successful. I was in 3rd gear but didn’t manage to the get the engine to turn over. It can be done but too chicken to try it again. A 500lb bike is no joke. Haha. Check out this video of a rider bump starting with what looks like webbing and some muscle:
Now that's what I call innovative! I noticed he put in 5th or 6th gear, thanks for the video!
 

inexorable

Active Member
Aug 16, 2018
118
42
28
UK
#5
Never considered it needing to be in a higher gear. Good call.
 

SHUMBA

Active Member
Oct 5, 2017
22
4
33
68
ONTARIO, CANADA
#6
So I'm coming back from a long back roads ride when my fuel light comes on. According to my GPS I only had 15 miles to get home, I decided to coast down the long down hills and bump start like I use to do on my other dirt bikes. Being sure the traction control was off and the ABS was off, slowing to around 20 mph I went to 3rd gear and dumped the clutch as I usually did on my other bikes Wouldn't turn the wheel to crank the engine, I thought maybe I didn't have traction or ABS off on the next down hill I tried it again, still didn't crank the engine it would just skid the rear tire. Has anybody else tried this? Or had this happen?
Interesting, because I have wondered if a "bump start " was difficult. I would say that it would not turn the engine over due to lack of traction. Suggest that you or someone give it a try on a solid and dry surface
Sorry I couldn't share any BS attempts with my AT. Ride safely and always wear your gear
SHUMBA
 
Likes: livingwellcfr
Sep 7, 2018
53
20
8
Hochstadt
#7
Think I have semi-mastered this in 4th.

Mornings after I get to the end of the second road on way to my work ,
and although bike is still cold the auto choke goes off,
I coast in 4th Gear with clutch in to the T junction as I do the revs drop right off below idle*
Anyway if I am not careful it will briefly cough then quickly cut out.**

However as I'm still doing 50-60 kmh in 4th , I re-engage the clutch , for a moment you think you
will go over the bars as the rear tire almost blocks, but it does re-start.

However If I don't catch it first time , I don't bother again.
At least if the engine is cold and you are going slower you will make a mess of it.

* 1400 Rpm is idle on my 2018 is sadly not adjustable.
** Anyone else know this sinking feeling , when it happens middle of a hair pin ?
 

Graves

Moderator
Staff member
Aug 14, 2016
929
295
123
So. Cal.
#8
You could put a resistor in the coolant sensor circuit to make the computer think that the engine is colder than it is, 0.2 volt change might get you through that window of stalling. Or a re-flash.

Think I have semi-mastered this in 4th.

Mornings after I get to the end of the second road on way to my work ,
and although bike is still cold the auto choke goes off,
I coast in 4th Gear with clutch in to the T junction as I do the revs drop right off below idle*
Anyway if I am not careful it will briefly cough then quickly cut out.**

However as I'm still doing 50-60 kmh in 4th , I re-engage the clutch , for a moment you think you
will go over the bars as the rear tire almost blocks, but it does re-start.

However If I don't catch it first time , I don't bother again.
At least if the engine is cold and you are going slower you will make a mess of it.

* 1400 Rpm is idle on my 2018 is sadly not adjustable.
** Anyone else know this sinking feeling , when it happens middle of a hair pin ?
 
Sep 7, 2018
53
20
8
Hochstadt
#9
Hi Graves, Hmm yes , but if I do that it will drive longer on choke. Probably a Poti would be a nice to have.

The bigger pain in the proverbial is >1400 rpm warm , this seems to be a 2018 thing,
all you can do is reflash & no guarantee that it will reduce idle.

What you certainly don't need is it cutting out, and I suspect that Honda have unwittingly created
the need for 1400 rpm after all the lightning up of balance shafts.

Sometimes as manual choke and a manual idle screw have advantages.
But I'm learning to live with it as it is.
 

Graves

Moderator
Staff member
Aug 14, 2016
929
295
123
So. Cal.
#10
This bike has the offset crank which makes it act like a 90 deg twin, so there's a lot of time between when the two cylinders fire then fire again. She doesn't like to be blipped. I got into a real bad habit of blipping the throttle to get my 650L to shift satisfactorily, found out real quick that the AT no likee. You could monitor the coolant sensor to see what the voltage is when it's in enrichment and when it's fully warmed up, and wire your resister to a switch that you could control manually.

Hi Graves, Hmm yes , but if I do that it will drive longer on choke. Probably a Poti would be a nice to have.

The bigger pain in the proverbial is >1400 rpm warm , this seems to be a 2018 thing,
all you can do is reflash & no guarantee that it will reduce idle.

What you certainly don't need is it cutting out, and I suspect that Honda have unwittingly created
the need for 1400 rpm after all the lightning up of balance shafts.

Sometimes as manual choke and a manual idle screw have advantages.
But I'm learning to live with it as it is.
 

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