Fix Oil Weep or Not?

belrix

Well-Known Member
Nov 2, 2015
657
320
208
51
SouthEast Kansas
My '17 AT has always weeped some oil, never enough to leave a puddle on the garage floor or to be even that noticable on the dipstick but enough to make a mess.

Should I try and fix the weep or just leave it alone?

Thanks

Brian

Sent from my E6910 using Tapatalk
 

RItwin

Well-Known Member
Gold Rider
Jul 31, 2018
177
105
113
R.I. USA
My '17 AT has always weeped some oil, never enough to leave a puddle on the garage floor or to be even that noticable on the dipstick but enough to make a mess.

Should I try and fix the weep or just leave it alone?

Thanks

Brian

Sent from my E6910 using Tapatalk
Question do you lube your chain often?
If you do like I do that is not oil weeping its lube slinging off the chain and dripping down I have that same wet spot under the front sprocket

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: kristofh

RItwin

Well-Known Member
Gold Rider
Jul 31, 2018
177
105
113
R.I. USA
My '17 AT has always weeped some oil, never enough to leave a puddle on the garage floor or to be even that noticable on the dipstick but enough to make a mess.

Should I try and fix the weep or just leave it alone?

Thanks

Brian

Sent from my E6910 using Tapatalk
Though if it is oil you might want to double check and pull that plastic cover with the gear numbers on it and look at your primary drive seal to be sure just two 5 mil allen bolts and a wire weave and Bob's your uncle

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
 

Graves

Moderator
Staff member
Legendary Rider
Aug 14, 2016
1,465
462
203
So. Cal.
Look at the front of the stator cover where the stator wiring exists the cover, might be leaking there and blowing back. The wiring exit plug seems to be a bit too small, mine leaked there and I’ve heard of others. Easy fix.

My '17 AT has always weeped some oil, never enough to leave a puddle on the garage floor or to be even that noticable on the dipstick but enough to make a mess.

Should I try and fix the weep or just leave it alone?

Thanks

Brian

Sent from my E6910 using Tapatalk
 

Black99S

Well-Known Member
Aug 25, 2016
130
75
148
BC, Canada
Look at the front of the stator cover where the stator wiring exists the cover, might be leaking there and blowing back. The wiring exit plug seems to be a bit too small, mine leaked there and I’ve heard of others. Easy fix.
Oil pushes up the stator wires and collects in the connector at the regulator. Possible it can leak at the connector.
Mine has a wet spot where the wires exit the left front sidecase cover.
 

belrix

Well-Known Member
Nov 2, 2015
657
320
208
51
SouthEast Kansas
Thanks for all the info!

I am sure some of the gunk is chain lube paste flung off the chain, but not all of it.

I went out to clean the AT and search for the source but only managed to round out one of the skid plate bolts!

:)
 

Graves

Moderator
Staff member
Legendary Rider
Aug 14, 2016
1,465
462
203
So. Cal.
Yep, that is a definite possibility. I’ve seen coolant residue in vehicle control modules.

Oil pushes up the stator wires and collects in the connector at the regulator. Possible it can leak at the connector.
Mine has a wet spot where the wires exit the left front sidecase cover.
 

belrix

Well-Known Member
Nov 2, 2015
657
320
208
51
SouthEast Kansas
It is definitely the stator plug! How do I fix it? Form a boot around the stator plug out of clear silicone? If so, what kind?

Apologizes my ignorance is showing :)
 
Last edited:

Graves

Moderator
Staff member
Legendary Rider
Aug 14, 2016
1,465
462
203
So. Cal.
Remove the stator cover, clean the old sealer off taking care not to let any fall into the crank case, clean the old sealer off of the stator cover, clean the old sealer off of the stator plug... all of this will require a lot of plastic scraper, fingernail and wire brush work. Clean ALL oil residue from all sealing surfaces, really important that all is squeaky clean, clean enough to feed your baby off of, brake clean works well. Make some guide studs that will guide the cover back in place while assembling, those magnets are real strong and will make it difficult to control the cover while setting it in place, the studs should be long enough to engage the cover before the magnets start pulling and stick out far enough to remove once the cover is in place. Apply RTV sealer, including around the stator plug, and reassemble. You don’t need a ton of sealer, just a nice even bead about 1/32” in diameter around the sealing surfaces, you can double that bead size around the rubber plug. Once reassembled let it set for 24 hrs before starting the engine so the sealer can set. It sounds worse than it is, really a simple job, the guide studs are a must though.

It is definitely the stator plug! How do I fix it? Form a boot around the stator plug out of clear silicone? If so, what kind?

Apologizes my ignorance is showing :)
 
  • Like
Reactions: superfunkomatic

Graves

Moderator
Staff member
Legendary Rider
Aug 14, 2016
1,465
462
203
So. Cal.
Oh, I forgot, I like the Permatex Ultra Grey for this job.

Remove the stator cover, clean the old sealer off taking care not to let any fall into the crank case, clean the old sealer off of the stator cover, clean the old sealer off of the stator plug... all of this will require a lot of plastic scraper, fingernail and wire brush work. Clean ALL oil residue from all sealing surfaces, really important that all is squeaky clean, clean enough to feed your baby off of, brake clean works well. Make some guide studs that will guide the cover back in place while assembling, those magnets are real strong and will make it difficult to control the cover while setting it in place, the studs should be long enough to engage the cover before the magnets start pulling and stick out far enough to remove once the cover is in place. Apply RTV sealer, including around the stator plug, and reassemble. You don’t need a ton of sealer, just a nice even bead about 1/32” in diameter around the sealing surfaces, you can double that bead size around the rubber plug. Once reassembled let it set for 24 hrs before starting the engine so the sealer can set. It sounds worse than it is, really a simple job, the guide studs are a must though.
 

belrix

Well-Known Member
Nov 2, 2015
657
320
208
51
SouthEast Kansas
Thanks a million for the detailed explanation, I'm going to tackle it at next oil change in 1,200 miles!

Looks like the guide dowels are 8mm in diameter, is steel fine, or should they be aluminum!

What kind of RTV should I use, too many choices on the Permatex website!



Sent from my SM-T713 using Tapatalk
 

RItwin

Well-Known Member
Gold Rider
Jul 31, 2018
177
105
113
R.I. USA
Just be cognizant if you use brake kleen it will destroy rubber and plastic and clear coat paint so be careful what you spray it on I would spray on a rag and use the rag to wipe carefully... words of wisdom learned the hard way!!

Keep the rubber side down

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
 

Graves

Moderator
Staff member
Legendary Rider
Aug 14, 2016
1,465
462
203
So. Cal.
I think the bolts are 6x1.0, you might have to go to fastener house to find bolts long enough. Use the Ultra Grey from Permatex, you should be able to find it at an auto parts store.

And RItwin is right about the brake clean, especially outside California, some brands can be rather aggressive. I usually cover my fingertip with a rag, spray the brake clean on the rag and wipe the surface clean. Don’t hose down with the stuff.

Thanks a million for the detailed explanation, I'm going to tackle it at next oil change in 1,200 miles!

Looks like the guide dowels are 8mm in diameter, is steel fine, or should they be aluminum!

What kind of RTV should I use, too many choices on the Permatex website!



Sent from my SM-T713 using Tapatalk
 

Graves

Moderator
Staff member
Legendary Rider
Aug 14, 2016
1,465
462
203
So. Cal.
...and obviously with the long bolts as guide studs you’ll be cutting the heads off of the bolts, be sure to smooth the cut ends so they slide smoothly through the cover bolt holes.

I think the bolts are 6x1.0, you might have to go to fastener house to find bolts long enough. Use the Ultra Grey from Permatex, you should be able to find it at an auto parts store.

And RItwin is right about the brake clean, especially outside California, some brands can be rather aggressive. I usually cover my fingertip with a rag, spray the brake clean on the rag and wipe the surface clean. Don’t hose down with the stuff.
 

Graves

Moderator
Staff member
Legendary Rider
Aug 14, 2016
1,465
462
203
So. Cal.
I keep remembering stuff...

The cover is sealed with RTV from the factory, so it’s glued on. After you remove the fasteners look around the cover and engine case, you’ll see tabs that they cast into the parts for prying the two apart, do not stick a screwdriver between the two to pry apart. When you get it free you’ll see just how strong those flywheel magnets are.

...and obviously with the long bolts as guide studs you’ll be cutting the heads off of the bolts, be sure to smooth the cut ends so they slide smoothly through the cover bolt holes.
 

belrix

Well-Known Member
Nov 2, 2015
657
320
208
51
SouthEast Kansas
Graves

How long of bolts should I be looking for? 4 inches or so? How many should I use, one to one or skipping every other bolt?

Thanks again for all the help!

Brian
 

Graves

Moderator
Staff member
Legendary Rider
Aug 14, 2016
1,465
462
203
So. Cal.
I would think 4 inches would be long enough. Two should suffice, all you’re trying to do is control the powerful magnets pull on the stator core from preventing a nice clean seating of the cover. Test fit it before you glue it up, you’ll see what I mean.

Graves

How long of bolts should I be looking for? 4 inches or so? How many should I use, one to one or skipping every other bolt?

Thanks again for all the help!

Brian
 

belrix

Well-Known Member
Nov 2, 2015
657
320
208
51
SouthEast Kansas
Well, it is done!

Lessons that I learned, listen to Grave's about test fitting, should have but didn't so I had the pleasure of cleaning off the sealer and reapplying!

Main issue was a clearance issue with the very top bolt and the way my SW-Motech mount, you have to hold your tongue the right way and kind of wiggle the cover into place. (Adult language and beverages required)

Will fill with oil and test run tomorrow afternoon

Thanks a million for all the help and advice!


Sent from my E6910 using Tapatalk
 

Graves

Moderator
Staff member
Legendary Rider
Aug 14, 2016
1,465
462
203
So. Cal.
Those flywheel magnets are something aren’t they?

Well, it is done!

Lessons that I learned, listen to Grave's about test fitting, should have but didn't so I had the pleasure of cleaning off the sealer and reapplying!

Main issue was a clearance issue with the very top bolt and the way my SW-Motech mount, you have to hold your tongue the right way and kind of wiggle the cover into place. (Adult language and beverages required)

Will fill with oil and test run tomorrow afternoon

Thanks a million for all the help and advice!


Sent from my E6910 using Tapatalk
 

About us

  • Africatwin.org was established in 2015 to provide adventure motorcyclists an online community focusing on the Honda Africa Twin. The forum has grown exponentially through the years with excellent and insightful content. As a result of our growth, africatwin.org has expanded its media network to provide editorial content to the adventure riding community. Africatwin.org is not affiliated with Honda Motor Co. and any opinions expressed on this website are solely those of the author and do not represent Honda Motor Co. or africatwin.org.

Quick Navigation

User Menu