Fixing weeping coolant

camshaft1991

Well-Known Member
Mar 29, 2018
40
2
68
29
New Orleans
Alright I'm going to to be replacing my water pump in the near future which I believe should solve my problem of coolant leaking out of the weep port and onto my exhaust.

So basically, all I ordered was the pump and all the gaskets associated with the pump and gaskets that lead up to it. I ordered from Ron Ayers. Hopefully this fixes my weeping problem.


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camshaft1991

Well-Known Member
Mar 29, 2018
40
2
68
29
New Orleans
I'm about to put new oil in my bike, but I won't be able to work on replacing my pump today. I think I'll have the time do to do it Friday. If I can't change it with oil in the engine then I'll just leave the bike dry until Friday. It's in a climate controlled garage so humidity should be minimal


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camshaft1991

Well-Known Member
Mar 29, 2018
40
2
68
29
New Orleans
Alright so I finally got around to tear the bike down

Dismantled my clutch on the top but left the bottom clutch in tact so I would have less adjustment later.

Another attribute to my laziness: instead of getting to the radiator cap i just pulled a hose.

It's a little mess but it was able to drain easier from the water pump drain bolt. I also didn't want to have to take my cowl piece off to get to it. I know the radiator cap is under there but I'm going to the leave the cowl or cowls, depending if I have to take both off for some reason. I'll take that off when I get my case cover on.

I also siphoned the reserve.
I have gasgacinch 440-a that i plan on using to seal it back. It's what I have on short notice with my next choice bring HondaBond-4 but I've read it applicable for what I'm doing. I could never find any specs on how its effective temperature range


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camshaft1991

Well-Known Member
Mar 29, 2018
40
2
68
29
New Orleans
I was going to update a video comparing the new and old water pump but I can't from this phone. Nothing seems wrong with old pump from just looking at it but it does behave slightly different from the new pump. When I push down, with both thumbs, on the bearings and shaft of the pump from the outside, the impeller on the inside lifts slightly away from the body and returns. The impeller on the new pump moves just as much only it does not return to position. I have to push the impeller on the inside to return it.
Old pump moves and returns to position.
New pump stays locked in each position.
A bit of force is needed to move each impeller.
Is this because the new pump lacks oil? Or is this the answer to my weeping problem?


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Graves

Moderator
Staff member
Legendary Rider
Aug 14, 2016
1,465
462
203
So. Cal.
If you’re not going to pull the side panel to get to the radiator cap how are you going to fill the cooling system?

I was going to update a video comparing the new and old water pump but I can't from this phone. Nothing seems wrong with old pump from just looking at it but it does behave slightly different from the new pump. When I push down, with both thumbs, on the bearings and shaft of the pump from the outside, the impeller on the inside lifts slightly away from the body and returns. The impeller on the new pump moves just as much only it does not return to position. I have to push the impeller on the inside to return it.
Old pump moves and returns to position.
New pump stays locked in each position.
A bit of force is needed to move each impeller.
Is this because the new pump lacks oil? Or is this the answer to my weeping problem?


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camshaft1991

Well-Known Member
Mar 29, 2018
40
2
68
29
New Orleans
If you’re not going to pull the side panel to get to the radiator cap how are you going to fill the cooling system?
I'm going to get to but I'm trying to minimize my work space foot print. I don't want anymore loose pieces strewed about or have a risk of some one else stepping on, kicking or crack my cowl piece. Other people pass the area where I'm working on it.


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Last edited:

camshaft1991

Well-Known Member
Mar 29, 2018
40
2
68
29
New Orleans

I cleaned my case surface with a plastic scraper and some gasket remover. I wiped away overspray twice with damp shop towels but there was one crevice I couldn't quite wipe well. The top part where the water pump line leaves at a 45 degree

I then rinsed it with scolding hot water, dried it as best I could, wrapped it with rags, put it in a black garbage bag, and left it to bake in the sun

I'm going to clean the engine mating surface with a damp acetone rag. I don't have anything to mask overspray and I can't exactly rinse my engine.


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camshaft1991

Well-Known Member
Mar 29, 2018
40
2
68
29
New Orleans
Question. Should I use gasket sealer on the
o-ring gasket for the water pump? Just to reiterate, I'm going to use gasgacinch 440-a to seal the case cover




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Graves

Moderator
Staff member
Legendary Rider
Aug 14, 2016
1,465
462
203
So. Cal.
No sealer on o-rings, just a little grease.

Brake cleaner and a tooth brush sized wire brush work real well for removing old RTV sealer. Just pack the open crank case area with paper towels to prevent debris from falling in.

Question. Should I use gasket sealer on the
o-ring gasket for the water pump? Just to reiterate, I'm going to use gasgacinch 440-a to seal the case cover




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camshaft1991

Well-Known Member
Mar 29, 2018
40
2
68
29
New Orleans
Alright so I'm in a bit of a pickle. When I assembled the case back onto the engine with gasgacinch on the case the engine and both sides of the gasket, I realized I forgot an o-ring seal on the pump. I had already screwed the bolts that held the case in but I hadn't fully torqued them.

Realizing this I unscrewed the bolts and pried the case off the engine with a scrap of wood. On the case half there are these overhangs that protrude out from where the case would make a seal with the engine. While separating the case from the engine the gasket began to peal away from both. The gasket is warped from the result. I successfully removed sealer from both the engine and case but I'm hand picking sealer from the gasket.


I've attempted to correct this by placing large books on top of it but I'm not sure if it's more weight I need or a flatter surface. Maybe I could use clamps to create more pressure?
I've already ordered another gasket but it won't be shipped till Friday.

I'm leaving the state for a 5 week work orientation on Sunday. The the gasket won't get here in time. After that I'll be on the road for quite some time driving semi-tractor trailers. I'll be on for two weeks and off for two days, but I can accumulate days off.

I'm going to have to either pick this gasket clean or rummage through the trash and see if the old gasket is in any better shape. Worse comes to worse the case will leak oil when it runs. The main O-ring gasket for the water pump is nicely snug so I won't have to worry about coolant leaking into the oil. Getting things put back together is a must even if it leaks a little oil.

Question is now should I assemble the case to the engine with gasket and sealer or should I assemble it without the sealer knowing I would come back to fix this?


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camshaft1991

Well-Known Member
Mar 29, 2018
40
2
68
29
New Orleans
Trash was emptied so no old gasket, but I might have solution to possibly fix my gasket: put the gasket in place on the case half, seal the engine dry, torque everything down hand tight with a socketed screw driver, and let it sit for an entire day. I can't think of a better way to reshape a gasket. I'll try not to torque it too much because I don't want to crush it and form around the engine and case until I'm ready to actually seal the engine shut. By the way, does anyone know the torque values for the engine case cover? 15ft/lbs? I remember that from a vintage bike I worked on but this is entirely different. Different gasket type and using gasket sealer.


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camshaft1991

Well-Known Member
Mar 29, 2018
40
2
68
29
New Orleans
Looks almost new along with some TLC from DHL shipping. Took several hours to scrape with my thumb nail. I know there's still some sealer embedded into the gasket using any solvent might ruin the gasket. I believe this is a MLS gasket right? It's only one metal sheet, but it's sandwiched in like a MLS gasket.

I set the gasket in place and torqued everything down hand tight with a socketed screw driver. I retorqued everything once over. Placing the gasket was problematic but it's snug in place now.


I think this is going to help reshape the gasket, but it will probably leak after I seal it again with gasket sealer.

This was what I was referring to earlier that I missed. An o-ring fits around this crevice of the water pump and then it slips inside the engine.

I'm going to let it sit for two days from today and try to reassemble everything Friday evening.


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