Rear Wheel Bearing Failure

belrix

Well-Known Member
Nov 2, 2015
859
433
208
52
SouthEast Kansas
Place holder for back story


Continuing from the "What I Did Today" thread


I was able to remove the intact bearing by heating and using a drift, actually fairly easy and straight forward!

But ran into a roadblock trying to remove the outer ring (race?) from the failed bearing, tried heat and prying the ring out but only accomplished putting a divot in the hub. :(

Any ideas on how the remove the stuck outer ring?

Hopefully, the divot won't interfere with the dust seal.

Sent from my SM-T713 using Tapatalk
 

Graves

Moderator
Staff member
Legendary Rider
Aug 14, 2016
1,572
517
233
So. Cal.
More importantly, you hope that the outer race isn’t welded to the hub, that wouldn’t be good. You might try carefully grinding the outer race in three places with a Dremel Tool so it’s thin enough to collapse in with a cape chisel.

Can you upload a picture?

Place holder for back story


Continuing from the "What I Did Today" thread


I was able to remove the intact bearing by heating and using a drift, actually fairly easy and straight forward!

But ran into a roadblock trying to remove the outer ring (race?) from the failed bearing, tried heat and prying the ring out but only accomplished putting a divot in the hub. :(

Any ideas on how the remove the stuck outer ring?

Hopefully, the divot won't interfere with the dust seal.

Sent from my SM-T713 using Tapatalk
 

belrix

Well-Known Member
Nov 2, 2015
859
433
208
52
SouthEast Kansas
Here is the damage

Ick



Sent from my E6910 using Tapatalk
 

Graves

Moderator
Staff member
Legendary Rider
Aug 14, 2016
1,572
517
233
So. Cal.
That is ugly. So the right goes in from the right and the left goes in from the left? I guess that race has to come out through the right then. Yes?

Here is the damage

Ick



Sent from my E6910 using Tapatalk
 

belrix

Well-Known Member
Nov 2, 2015
859
433
208
52
SouthEast Kansas
Yes, no way to get a drift on the backside through the hub. I heated for 2-3 minutes with a propane torch and tried to lever it out with a sheepsfoot but just dented the hub, even with a piece of thin plywood under the pry bar.

I've been reading about blind bearing pullers but haven't seen one with a large enough diameter but I totally ignorant of tool and its usage.

Going to try and cut some slots across it and see if I can twist it part with a flat-bladed screwdriver


Thanks for all the help!

Sent from my SM-T713 using Tapatalk
 

Graves

Moderator
Staff member
Legendary Rider
Aug 14, 2016
1,572
517
233
So. Cal.
If you grind very carefully with a Dremel in a few spots, grinding only the race and not the aluminum hub, to where the race is very thin, you can collapse a chunk of the race inward using a modified cape chisel to catch the outer edge of the race.

Otherwise: https://www.ebay.com/p/14012501824?...MIo5nVoaTs6AIVEiCtBh27CQgIEAQYAiABEgJ9FfD_BwE

Yes, no way to get a drift on the backside through the hub. I heated for 2-3 minutes with a propane torch and tried to lever it out with a sheepsfoot but just dented the hub, even with a piece of thin plywood under the pry bar.

I've been reading about blind bearing pullers but haven't seen one with a large enough diameter but I totally ignorant of tool and its usage.

Going to try and cut some slots across it and see if I can twist it part with a flat-bladed screwdriver


Thanks for all the help!

Sent from my SM-T713 using Tapatalk
 

belrix

Well-Known Member
Nov 2, 2015
859
433
208
52
SouthEast Kansas
Well considering that I had to look up what a cape chisel is, I should probably just order a new rear wheel. I know the hub assembly would be cheaper but I had no idea how to lace a wheel



Sent from my SM-T713 using Tapatalk
 

daytonatwin

Member
Oct 26, 2019
125
13
18
central fl
Well considering that I had to look up what a cape chisel is, I should probably just order a new rear wheel. I know the hub assembly would be cheaper but I had no idea how to lace a wheel



Sent from my SM-T713 using Tapatalk
Don't mind him he likes to be technical! You may need more heat! but don't heat the alum hub, it will melt B 4 it helps. An acetylene torch would be the ticket but heat the race. That will separate the weld joint (actually galling) since a ferrous and non have a diff molecular alignment of ? molecules) "how I do on that Graves" so can't weld,,, It will also degrade the temper so it may bend.
WARNING!! at its present state DO wear safety glasses while hitting the race with a CAPE or good ballpeen hammer or any hard item they will chip and always have a velocity of a rifle. You can dig it out of your arm but in the eye! I bet with bushing lock after cleaning you won't know the diff.

This has happened @ how many miles? You do alot of water X above the axles?
 

daytonatwin

Member
Oct 26, 2019
125
13
18
central fl
If you have a welding unit run a bead around the race face, immediately after you finish the bead flip the wheel over the race will fall out.... Just sayin
 

belrix

Well-Known Member
Nov 2, 2015
859
433
208
52
SouthEast Kansas
No welder or acetylene torch available, going to try grinding in a couple of spots to weaken the race and pop it with a drift.

I truly appreciate all the advice and suggestions!
 

HerrDeacon

Well-Known Member
Sep 12, 2018
28
11
63
Canada
No welder or acetylene torch available, going to try grinding in a couple of spots to weaken the race and pop it with a drift.

I've had to do that while working on some old bikes before, its a bit of a pain but does work. Just take your time.
 

Graves

Moderator
Staff member
Legendary Rider
Aug 14, 2016
1,572
517
233
So. Cal.
Hey, I had another idea that may be stupid easy. Have you started grinding yet?
 

Graves

Moderator
Staff member
Legendary Rider
Aug 14, 2016
1,572
517
233
So. Cal.
Get four of the balls from the bearing, if none survived you’ll have to harvest them from the other bearing, place them in the outer race of the bad bearing then put the inner race in the middle. Move the balls to the twelve, three, six and nine o’clock positions, this should trap the inner race in its original position within the outer race, then drive the inner and outer races out of the hub from the other side. Clean everything before you start and use some grease to hold the balls in place while you work. This might just work.
 

Graves

Moderator
Staff member
Legendary Rider
Aug 14, 2016
1,572
517
233
So. Cal.
I do know that I’m now going to order some bearings and replace them just for fun.
 

belrix

Well-Known Member
Nov 2, 2015
859
433
208
52
SouthEast Kansas
It is out! Grinded three weak spots, couldn't knock it loose with a drift but was able get a flat blade under the thin spot and leverage it out. Yikes!

This did scratch the hub a little, but I emeried the rough spots, hope it is good enough



Sent from my E6910 using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: Graves

belrix

Well-Known Member
Nov 2, 2015
859
433
208
52
SouthEast Kansas
Is the hub usable?

Should I replace the bearing in the cush drive also?

How able the center spacer in the hub? The spacer in the cush drive? The wheel collars and axle?


Apologies for all the questions, I'm a little frazzled

:)
 

About us

  • Africatwin.org was established in 2015 to provide adventure motorcyclists an online community focusing on the Honda Africa Twin. The forum has grown exponentially through the years with excellent and insightful content. As a result of our growth, africatwin.org has expanded its media network to provide editorial content to the adventure riding community. Africatwin.org is not affiliated with Honda Motor Co. and any opinions expressed on this website are solely those of the author and do not represent Honda Motor Co. or africatwin.org.

Quick Navigation

User Menu