Tools Needed for Fork Oil Change?

belrix

Well-Known Member
Nov 2, 2015
878
440
208
52
SouthEast Kansas
My AT has 24,000 miles on it, so it is way overdue for a fork oil change. I am a complete novice when it comes to working on forks.

What tools do I need?

Should I get a fork spring compressor?

How far do I need to disassemble the forks to change the oil?

I have the maintenance manual and have read through it, but I don't believe I need to completely disassemble the forks.

Help!

:)
 

Graves

Moderator
Staff member
Legendary Rider
Aug 14, 2016
1,581
521
233
So. Cal.
To do it “right” you would completely disassemble the fork, clean all parts and reassemble with new bushings, seals and oil. Or you can do it like I do and just dump out the old oil, use fresh clean oil to flush the dampers, then reassemble with new oil. If you have the stock springs, you can remove the caps by hand. If you have fat boy springs like I do a spring compressor would save you from having to use all the bad words in surprising and shocking combinations. You don’t have to remove the springs, but it makes pumping the dampers for flushing and bleeding a lot easier.

My AT has 24,000 miles on it, so it is way overdue for a fork oil change. I am a complete novice when it comes to working on forks.

What tools do I need?

Should I get a fork spring compressor?

How far do I need to disassemble the forks to change the oil?

I have the maintenance manual and have read through it, but I don't believe I need to completely disassemble the forks.

Help!

:)
 

belrix

Well-Known Member
Nov 2, 2015
878
440
208
52
SouthEast Kansas
I found a video that details getting about 90% of the oil out of the forks by just unscrewing the fork cap and leaving everything else connected. Looks good enough for me!

Will I need to back out the preload, compression and rebound adjusters or can I leave them alone since I'm not disassembling the forks?

Thanks

Brian

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egary1974

Well-Known Member
Sep 5, 2017
119
45
148
Arkansas
Take out the cartridges and pump them then when you think you have most of it out use brake cleaner to get them really clean.

You will want to change the fork seals at this time. The AT forks have a lot of slip between the uppers and lowers for a modern motorcycle that can stress the seal At 24,000 seal is probably hanging by a thread. I can post a shopping list I made with part numbers when I did mine. I used a Kawasaki -Showa seal because it has two compression spring rings vs. Honda’s Showa seal having 1. Perfect fit.


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belrix

Well-Known Member
Nov 2, 2015
878
440
208
52
SouthEast Kansas
Hmm, I know I should have the forks serviced but feeling cheap and don't want to buy the required tools.

I will take with the local Honda dealer and see what they will charge

Thanks!
 

egary1974

Well-Known Member
Sep 5, 2017
119
45
148
Arkansas
Hmm, I know I should have the forks serviced but feeling cheap and don't want to buy the required tools.

I will take with the local Honda dealer and see what they will charge

Thanks!

If you change your mind let me know and I’ll dig it up.


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belrix

Well-Known Member
Nov 2, 2015
878
440
208
52
SouthEast Kansas
Talked with my local Honda dealer about replacing seals and bushings in my AT's fork, the price wasn't too bad but the mechanic talked me into doing the work myself. :). He is booked solid with quad and SxS service tickets.

Here is the parts list:



SEAL SET, FR. FORK
51490-MJP-G51 x2

BUSH, GUIDE
51414-MFR-671 x2

BUSH, SLIDER
51415-MFR-671 x2

Sticking with Honda from my local dealer.


Actually kind of excited to get started but will wait until it is time to change the tires.

Brian
 

Graves

Moderator
Staff member
Legendary Rider
Aug 14, 2016
1,581
521
233
So. Cal.
In the end you’ll find that there’s not a whole lot of magic in there, and that fork servicing is quite easy. Just pay real close attention and think it through. Lots of good YouTube’s out there.

Talked with my local Honda dealer about replacing seals and bushings in my AT's fork, the price wasn't too bad but the mechanic talked me into doing the work myself. :). He is booked solid with quad and SxS service tickets.

Here is the parts list:



SEAL SET, FR. FORK
51490-MJP-G51 x2

BUSH, GUIDE
51414-MFR-671 x2

BUSH, SLIDER
51415-MFR-671 x2

Sticking with Honda from my local dealer.


Actually kind of excited to get started but will wait until it is time to change the tires.

Brian
 

superfunkomatic

Well-Known Member
I watched this video (and became a Patreon subscriber to the channel). All simple hand tools and a few specialized tools. Pretty straightforward and I'd never done them before. Switched to SKF seals which were noticeably better and haven't leaked for over 25,000 kilometres (unlike the OEM ones).

 

MacNobody

Well-Known Member
Oct 22, 2019
17
4
63
Rogers, AR
If you change your mind let me know and I’ll dig it up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What is the tool list? I just ordered a universal spring compressor and damper holding tool.

What other tools do I need to buy?

I’m ordering new bushings and already bought some OEM seals before I knew there were better options.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Graves

Moderator
Staff member
Legendary Rider
Aug 14, 2016
1,581
521
233
So. Cal.
What is the tool list? I just ordered a universal spring compressor and damper holding tool.

What other tools do I need to buy?

I’m ordering new bushings and already bought some OEM seals before I knew there were better options.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I’ve spent years fiddling around with half assed home made fork bushing/seal drivers. Did the forks on my new to me CRF450X and bought a proper driver. Why oh why do we cheap out on ourselves when it comes to things like this? The fork seal driver is well worth the $30, changes a fiddley tedious operation into a 3 second affair. … And what about goggles, why to we use them until they fall apart? Are they that expensive? So expensive that we can’t buy them every six months to have clear vision? We sure do like kicking ourselves in the twins don’t we?
 

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