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Discussion in 'CRF1000L(2) Known Issues and Fixes' started by SoCalEddie, Aug 20, 2017.
@mike5100 Thank you. I'll add this to the list and also have heard about this issue.
This is not a common issue. In fact, it took Honda more than two weeks to fix and I could only find one other reference to a similar a occurrence on a DCT bike, and that was from a few years ago on a NCT700 where the bike 'fixed itself'.
I will not bore you with what we've done, what we tested etc, but simply state the facts, as EVERYTHING on the bike checked out 100% and nothing was wrong with it.
The bike worked when I rode it our for lunch break. Idling was a bit high, but not excessive.
After lunch, the bike started normally, but the DCT system refuses to engage the gears
Honda picked up the bike where it was
Even resetting the computer will not allow the DCT system to come back on line and the system refuses to acknowledge any of the commands given to it, such as described in the workshop and user manuals for engaging a new clutch system to allow the system to 'learn' the clutches or anything else.
Error codes on the diagnostic system originally indicated both clutch solenoids to be faulty. These error codes disappeared after resetting, never appeared again, but nothing worked
The dealer thought the computer crapped itself and they went as far as requesting warranty approval to replace it.
There is a subset of menus within the Honda diagnostics system (which neither the dealer nor the tech department on-call even knew about) that needs to be accessed. This allow a 'complete' factory reset of the computer and clears all information out of it.
When starting the bike up again, the whole bike has to reboot from scratch, relearn all its auto-modes and clutch etc.
This was an 'easy' fix, and there was nothing wrong with the bike, but obviously it wasn't working
Honda has no idea what happened and why it did it, but thinks it may have been a power spike. Apart from making sure battery terminals are clean and fixed properly (which they were), they have no solution for preventing it from happening
There is no way you can repair this by yourself if it happens in the middle of nowhere - the bike must be connected to the Honda diagnostic system with 'special access'
After discussion with my dealer, and from what he has done, I did gather that normal resetting of the computer as per workshop manual will allow the bike to engage 1st gear, but nothing else. At least doing this will allow a person to crawl/limp back to civilization if you're stuck out in the sticks.
I would like to add another different mode of starter switch failure.
In my case instead of failing to start, it starts without me actually pressing the starter button (ie when I turn the ignition to on). Worse though is that my starter motor has regularly been engaging itself whilst I have been riding.
Interesting. What should we call this?
so Ive been up to Carlisle today and had 4 warranty claims in:-
Left hand switch gear,
Right hand switchgear,
front and rear spokes.
It was 1 deg C and icy on the way up and the grips were barely warm even on the highest setting of 5.
Dunlop tyres were awful and felt like they were sliding all the time (maybe they were!)
So four hours later I have new switchgear on the right hand side and the bike starts first time (not like with the old switch.)
The set button on the left hand side doesn't get stuck in.
Both front and rear wheels have been replace for new ones BUT the spokes are plated mild steel (checked them with a magnet) so will these ones be getting taken back in 11 months time for replacement ?
The hated grips (yes I typed it correctly) didn't seem any better to be honest - it was 7 deg C going home but still didn't feel particularly warm and certainly not 'hot'.
Interestingly there was a red 2017 DCT bike outside with 3K on the clock and he had tarnished spokes on the black wheels. I mentioned the spokes and he didn't know about it.
Ive had some Pirelli Scorpion Rally STR tyres fitted and will post a review in the tyre section (initial thoughts are they are much better than the Dunlop's.)
Funnily enough I was in the Lake district yesterday (ie one day after you) and the weather was a bit warmer so about 4 or 5 degrees. I was surprised to feel the back end going twice and the front once as I wasn't pushing it. I have the Conti tyres on which I put on 4k miles ago. My gut feel is I am not impressed especially as I'm going to be lucky to get 8k miles out of these whereas I could have got 10-12k out of the OEM's if I hadn't changed them at the 8k service.
Looking at the photo you were parked on the 'struggle' coming down from Kirkstone pass into Ambleside. None of the minors roads will have been gritted, or if they were its washed off in the rain lately.
Saying that the stock tyres are rubbish and Im glad to see the back of them.
Hope you had a good run out.
I've noticed corrosion of my spokes about a month after having the bike. Did a run from SoCal up to Oregon and back.
I've also had one of the bolt heads shear off during a removal of the spark arrestor (4k mi. maintenance). Filed a claim with my dealership. I'll find out more this week. I'll also request the spokes to be replaced as well.
I've noticed since I've gotten the bike that during cold weather starts that it likes to "knock". RPM will dip a bar, and a loud metallic "clunk" can be heard. Goes away after the engine warms up. Also, this is an intermittent issue. Comes and goes like a ghost. Anyone else have this issue? I'll try to grab an audio recording next time. Also, I am running a DCT.
@SoCalEddie Thank you for this thread!
I would like to add a new potential warranty issue - misting up of the instruments. This was a big problem on the NC700/750 which Honda acknowledged and replaced under warranty.
The misting is visible in the centre of the lower panel (took several hours to clear)
Yep, mine does/did that, when it was new it used to kill the engine, I figured that it was the timing ramping up for a self test. I started giving the throttle a little twist after starting, that seem'd to stop the clunk, or I got used to it and don't notice it anymore.
When it rains hard I smell burning. Smells electrical. No other symptoms.
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I have also had a bolt shear off while trying to remove spark arrestor on my 2016 Twin .. standard transmission ( 7000 miles)
After the first bolt sheared off I tried a second bolt but could feel the threads starting to gall almost immediately so I stopped.
The problem seems to be stainless steel bolts on stainless steel captive nuts with no lubrication used during assembly at the factory.
This is a well known issues with stainless steel fasteners (thread galling)and I am surprised that Honda did not use an anti seize assembly lubricant.
As my bike is of of warranty I did't try a claim.
Did you have any luck with your claim from Honda?
I picked my AT up two weeks ago and noticed that the front of my engine has a bad finish really rough.
mine had that and now its starting to corrode - the paint is coming off and corrosion behind!!
the places that are affected are only very small at this stage, but this is on the front of the engine, side and back of the engine too. Bike has never been off road or dropped.
looks like poor quality finish on the casings or poor paint that hasn't adhered!
Told the dealer about mine not interested in bought a Honda thinking they have a good finish but it's not the case.